Today I was invited to join my apartment's current guests on their trip to Khan al-Khalili, the main bizarre at the center of historic Islamic Cairo. For the record, Cairo is rather massive (in case one didn't know), and historically has moved around its center quite a bit. The Fatimid takeover in the 10th Center created a new quasi-suburb called "al-Qahira" next to Fustat, the prior settlement. Al-Qahira became the center of the new Caliphal city, while Fustat continued on as its older, commercial center. Coptic Cairo is near the Fustat portion (now an archeological site with little continuity), while Islamic Cairo is al-Qahira.
Getting to Khan al-Khalili from where I live is a bit of a trek. Which is true of getting to many places from where I live, but this one involves two different metro lines (there are 3 in the entire city) and a taxi. That said, the total fare there and back is about two dollars, so I can't really complain. I also really like the metro.
Anyhow, basically, the central part of Cairo is monument-central of the Islamic world. Half of your Islamic art history textbook is here (why do you have an Islamic art history textbook you ask). Immediately, al-Azhar is rather conspicuous, although unfortunately we did not go inside due to prayer times.
I think it is conspicuous
so conspicuous
A massive mosque, and claimant to the title of "Oldest University in the World" (the other being al-Qaraouine in Fes), the al-Azhar was built in 975 CE by the Fatimids, who established Egypt as their massive Shi'a empire with al-Azhar as its theological gem. Once Salah al-Din (or Saladin) of the Ayyubids took over in the 11th Century, al-Azhar changed its sectarian affiliation to Sunni, but remained the pre-eminent site of Egyptian theology (and now the pre-eminent site of international Sunni theology). So yeah, it's kind of famous and such.
Khan al-Khalili itself is across the street through rather awesome modernist tunnels (I think you are not supposed to find the tunnels cool, as shown by the guard's rather perturbed look at my photo taking), taking up a sprawling amount of territory.
Khan al-Khalili itself is across the street through rather awesome modernist tunnels (I think you are not supposed to find the tunnels cool, as shown by the guard's rather perturbed look at my photo taking), taking up a sprawling amount of territory.
modernist tunnels!
outer edge!
The outer edge of Khan al-Khalili is also where a bomb went off under a bench earlier this year, resulting in the removal of all benches from that corner (?) as well as a massive police presence. Once inside, Khan al-Khalili appears similar (to my eyes at least) to many an Arab-world historic market, winding alleys of people trying to get your attention (although, as today was Sunday, it was actually rather emptied out, making it a little easier to walk around).
market-ness
What does make this area special is the ridiculous amount of really impressive buildings you randomly bump into walking around it. Despite being there for about four hours, I can easily say that I missed most of them, and only glimpsed a handful of those I did see. Must return and go inside I suppose.
random impressive buildings!
random impressive buildings!
Of these, the al-Ghuri mosque was the only we entered, but the building is deserving of visitors to say the least. Beautiful interior, but also with a talk with the caretaker, its rooftop and minaret were accessible. Hard to argue with that type of view.
Of these, the al-Ghuri mosque was the only we entered, but the building is deserving of visitors to say the least. Beautiful interior, but also with a talk with the caretaker, its rooftop and minaret were accessible. Hard to argue with that type of view.
caretaker and al-Ghuri
more woodwork!
interior of al-Ghuri
how to summit a minaret: a guide
view of Bab Zwela
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