fes el-bali

Hey everyone,

So, in case the subject heading didn't clue you in, I am now off in Fes, possibly the most beautiful city I have ever been to.  First off, it doesn't hurt that the State Department is apparently trying to woo us not with the rod (a.k.a. "you owe the government, join us immediately after this program!"), but rather the carrot.  We're staying in the two most gorgeous hotels (and some of the most beautiful buildings I have seen in general, although much of Morocco is holding that title).  Both of them are what is known as a riyad (literally, garden), which are buildings built around a central courtyard covered in zellij (Moroccan tile work), then intricately carved plaster and cedar, all around a fountain (one of which was filled with rose petals).  Seriously, win people over by housing them in places like these.  

Next bonus for Fes – immediately upon getting here we were treated to Moroccan al-tay on the rooftop terrace overlooking the city as the sun set.  

This morning, we went out into Fes el-bali, the old city, which is also where our hotel is.  The entire city is built upon narrow alleyways and streets far to small for cars that weave in and out through it, sometimes being so built around by high adobe walls that you're actually in a tunnel.  We were led around by 'Aziz, one of the leaders of a World Bank (I know, I know) sponsored project to revitalize the medina, in charge of bringing back the traditional water system.  Once upon a time (in other words, 12 centuries ago), Fes had three distinct canal systems: spring water (drinking), river water (washing), and sewage.  Each had its own series of intricate canals that brought the water to over 3,500 fountains throughout the city (many in private homes), or, in the case of the later, took it away from the city in cedar-lined (so as to perfume it) canals.  Naturally, when the French came, they decided the whole system was worthless, stopped it, and set-up a series of lead-pipes...  Go colonialism!  Now, 'Aziz is working to restore both this system (much of the city is still stuck with the lead), while also restoring the traditional homes (like the aforementioned riyad) throughout the city.  His tour was given to us entirely in Modern Standard Arabic (though we did have our excellent guide Muhammad translating), as he lead us through one of the canal centers near Bab Jeloud (one of the city gates), then to the traditional water clock (which worked by having tightly controlled streams of water knock down a window with a ding every hour on the hour), followed by a visit to the Bou Inania Madrasa and Mosque (another center of learning in its day like the one in Marrakech), before ending at the traditional arts museum where we had tea and lunch on the roof, again over looking the city (rooftops here are fantastic).

After lunch, we headed down to Muhammad's prior place of work, an amazing (Fodor-rated as the man working there informed us, then he read his description in the guide.  All glowing I assure you) carpet store in, you guessed it, a riyad.  The building was beautiful, and the carpets really are a masterpiece of art in and of themselves (if anyone sends me $700 I'll get you one), and he was a delightfully enthusiastic character who took out piles of rugs for us and explained their craftsmanship while treating us to... more al-tay.

We then headed out to the tanneries, which smell awful, but are visually beautiful red clay wats with brightly colored dyes in them that you look out upon, before heading back to the riyad, where I write this to you.

I have uploaded some photos to facebook for those of you who can check that, and will be posting more (probably later tonight).  Unfortunately, they are about to serve dinner where I am writing from in the (yep) riyad, so I should scaddatle (how do you spell that word?).  My own dinner is apparently très chic tonight, complete with basilla (a pigeon, saffron & cinnamon pastry) complete with dancers, hakawatis (storytellers), and more (seriously, carrot!).  But, I will be writing more later (probably about that), as well as putting more photos up on facebook, as well as somewhere where all of you can get at them.